Pet care tips

Crate Training

1. The crate should be large enough for an adult dog to stand and turn around unimpeded. A wire cage is recommended for proper ventilation and so it can see.
2. Assemble the crate and place it in the bedroom. The bedroom is recommended because the puppy wants to associate with others.
3. Introduce the puppy to the crate by placing several treats in and around it. Also feed the puppy several meals inside the crate. Remove collar and tags to prevent possible entanglement.
4. Well before bedtime, place the puppy in the crate and offer a treat. Close and lock the gate.
5. Leave the room, but remain just outside in order to audit the puppy’s behavior.
6. At the first sign of any separation responses (such as backing or howling), intervene with a sharply raised voice. The idea is that the puppy associates its behavior with the starting raised voice. Some puppies will not respond to a raised voice, but most will respond to the sounds of a shaker can (a coffee can with a few coins) or newspaper slapped sharply against the door.
7. Usually the puppy settles quietly in the crate after three to eight attempts at emotional responses. After the puppy is quiet, keep it inside for about 10 minutes. Do not praise or pet the puppy immediately after releasing it. This can reinforce the desirability of leaving the crate.
8. After an interval of 30-45 minutes, repeat the procedure. Extend the puppy quiet time in the crate to about 30 minutes.
9. While the puppy is inside the crate, provide one chewable toy. Also, any collars or leads should be removed to prevent entanglement.

Advantage of crate training

1. The puppy does not form the habit of eliminating in the house.
2. The puppy can be placed in its “den” when it cannot be watched during the day.
3. The separation reflex is reduced curtailing possible side effect related to stress.
4. A puppy that has been successfully create-trained will prefer its “den”. As the puppy matures, it will voluntarily seek out the crate and enter it at the appropriate time. The owner can enjoy peace of mind knowing the dog is quite comfortable and not destroying the house.

Prevention and treatment of Otitis (ear infection)

Moisture in the ear sustains the development and spread of Otitis.  It creates an environment that is friendly to a number of agents that can harm the ear. The infection may be caused by fungus or bacteria, or it may develop as a result of parasitic infestation from mites or ticks. Other causes include tumors, foreign objects, injuries, or wax and dirt buildup in the ear canal. All of these can cause excessive moisture and a progressive infection that result in pain and irritation for the pet.

Moisture-induced Otitis is common in dogs with floppy ears, such as Cocker Spaniels and Basset Hounds. By blocking air circulation at the opening to the ear canals, these ear shapes help trap moisture inside. This then leads to the development of Otitis. But regardless of dog’s breed or anatomy, it is vital to check the ears frequently, plug them with cotton balls during baths and watch for the signs that indicate irritation, such as head shaking, scratching and a foul odor.

Veterinary attention is critical to treating Otitis, first to ensure a proper diagnosis of the condition’s cause, and second to obtain treatment without causing further injury to the dog’s ears. In most cases, the veterinarian will first clean the ears and look for potential causes.  A culture may also be taken to identify specific bacteria or fungi. In some cases, the cleaning alone may clear up the infection which may also be done at the groom shop. There are also some cases that may require surgery to reopen a severely blocked ear canal.

After treating Otitis, the veterinarian will probably prescribe medication. The medication is usually administered for several weeks to clear up the infection and to halt its spread.  For the initial cleaning and examination, the dog may need to be anesthetized: Otitis can be excruciatingly painful. The pain of Otitis is a primary reason why its treatment is not a do-it-yourself routine.

Owners should never attempt to jab anything into a dog’s ear, nor should they try to clean the ear canal. These actions can injure an ear, because great pain to inflamed tissue and cause permanent hearing loss. Once a dog has suffered a bout of otitis, it may be prone to a recurrence in the future. Regular grooming and vet check-up will ensure healthy ears for your pet.

 

 

Canine Foot Care

The canine foot has a number of marvelous adaptations. The skin on the bottom of the foot is thick and tough, protecting the feet from rough surfaces. In contrast, the inner layer of the foot is fatty, acting as a cushion to absorb the shock of each step. The skin, or epidermis, has been modified to form toenails for digging and for traction. The outer layer of the nail is horny and may be pigmented, while the inner layer, the dermis or quick is filled with blood vessels.

A dog’s feet require special attention. Routine foot care is quite easy, but is often neglected because many dogs don’t like having their feet held or handled. It is best to accustom your dog to having its feet handled while it is a puppy. If your dog is already grown, however, you can teach it to accept the handling required. Don’t try trimming the nails or clipping the hair between your dog’s toes until the dog’s behavior permits so. A tug of war with your dog’s paw is almost certain to end with a cut into the quick, which leads to a sore foot and a reluctant dog.

Most dogs need regular nail trims because few get enough exercise on hard surfaces to wear their nails down naturally. Ideally, the nails should be about even with the bottom of the pad so that as the dog walks, the nails barely touch the ground. Nails that are too long cause the feet to splay, and they can snag furniture and carpets, scratch floors and people, catch on things and tear, and in extreme cases, become ingrown.

Ingrown nails are most common on the dewclaws, which get no wear because they don’t touch the ground. Also, they are often hidden in long hair. Long nails are sometimes torn and broken, resulting in lameness. A broken nail should be removed. To do so, restrain the dog, grasp the nail with fingers or tweezers, and give a quick hand jerk. Bleeding is usually minimal. If the nail doesn’t come out, it will have to be left to drop off on its own or be removed by a veterinarian.

Trimming the nail is a simple procedure. Always use a good quality, sharp clipper designed for dogs; don’t try to use regular scissors or nail clippers. Dogs with light colored nails are easy to work with because if you hold the nail up to the light, you can see the quick. Trim the nail just beyond the end of the quick. For dogs with dark nails, trim just pass the point where the nail starts to curve downward.  If you cut into the quick the nail will bleed. A dab with a styptic pencil will quickly stop the bleeding; such a cut is very painful to the dog, so expect it to be reluctant the next time. It is best for a professional groomer to maintain the care of your dog’s foot. Fells point pet center offers routine foot care separately outside of a groom.